Fish, part 3

One of the highlights of our trip was our two–hour boat ride on the Shire River. We got a chance to see fisherman first hand. Two or three men or older boys man a small wooden boat. I believe that the boats were similar to what I would call a row boats with one man standing in the stern (back) working the fishing nets. We saw several fishing boats during our two–hour cruise on the river.

We also saw large groups of people at a couple of sites along the river. According to both Luzu and our captain, the people gathered at these sites were wholesalers or distributors. The fishermen sell their catch to these wholesalers or distributors. They in turn, sell the catch to other distributors who then sell the fish to restaurants, grocery stores, or smaller operators who sell at open–air markets. Or they may sell the fish on their own without going through a middleman.

Fish, part 2

On our first full day in Malawi, we went to open a open air market in Malawi. And you guessed, there were lots and lots of fish for sale, sardines and tilapia (or chambo)

mostly. Two things interested us, one was that the fish sellers displayed the fish in very interesting decorative patterns. I’m sorry that I did not take any pictures, so you’ll have to take my word for it. I still have the image of circular patterns of sardines. Real pretty.

More interesting was that the fish on display was not on ice. And there was no refrigeration. We asked our friend at CARD and Luzu about this. Turns out that the sellers and the buyers know just how long fish keeps without ice or refrigeration. Buyers may have coolers and they can purchase ice blocks.

I had chambo, a whole chambo in Zomba. It is quite tasty. By a whole chambo, I mean whole, including the head. I couldn’t deal with the eyes. Someone told me that the eyes are good, but I decided to pass on the eyes.

Fish, part 1

We are big fish eaters, eating fish a couple of times a week. Like many other Americans, I go to the store to by my fish. In some cases, the fish has been prepared in some way, salmon is marinated, crab cakes are made, or fish is breaded. Yes, I am somewhat embarrassed to say that I do not marinate nor do I bread my own fish. We spend a little more for the fish we buy, but it is worth it. One of our few luxuries.

Thanks to federal regulations, I know the country of origin of the fish I buy and whether the fish is what they call “wild” or “farm raised.” It always tickles me to buy “wild” swordfish because I do not think that swordfish is raised on fish farms. But the law is the law. We like farm–raised salmon over wild salmon because farm raised salmon are fatter than their wild relatives.

Sometimes I think about where the fish comes from and the loss to fish populations. I know that I should not eat swordfish, because the swordfish population is severely depleted from over fishing. So, I compromise and only buy swordfish once or twice a month.

And we like to go to fish hatcheries. Don’t ask me why. We just do. Deep sea fishing, well let’s just say I had one bad experience on a fishing boat off of the Jersey shore watching people torture this poor blue fish. I prayed that I would not catch any thing, and I did not. And to this day, I rarely eat blue fish.

So, when I travel, I check out the fish. I know that my Lake in Vermont is stocked with trout. The Rivers near me are stocked with trout. I find out where I can buy good fresh fish, and when the fish deliveries come in.

When I traveled to Malawi, one of the first things that I noticed was fish. Fish was sold by in the open–air market in Lilongwe. Stay tuned for more on fish in Malawi, tomorrow.

Goats

I think that I already written about the large number of goats that we saw during our travels in Malawi. If I recall I wrote about the large numbers of goats that we saw on my second or third day in Malawi.

Fairly early during our two-week stay in Malawi, we realized that Malawians rarely used goats for their milk. Given the great poverty and the attendant hunger and malnourishment that goes along with poverty, some of us wondered why goats were not used for milk. I learned from some of my fellow Malawi travelers that goats are high milk producers. When we asked Malawians that we meet about this, many did not know. Some may have offered that some of the goats we saw were wild, but my notes may well be a little fuzzy on this particular point.

Our friends at CARD offered an answer to the question of why goats were not used for milk. The answer is that most families have cultural resistance to this because in their way of thinking, goats are only for meat. At least one of the agricultural programs in Colleges in Malawi are working on a goat dairy program. But this is on a small scale.

I should add that I don’t recall seeing many dairy cows in Malawi.

Food Security in Malawi

On the morning of our last day in Blantyre (June 25), we had our second meeting of our trip with staff members of the Churches Action for Relief and Development (CARD). CARD is affiliated with the Global Aids Interfaith Alliance (GAIA), working in the southern region of Malawi. The staff was a fount of information on a variety of issues relating to life in Malawi. While we were waiting for others to join us, we had a chance to pick the brains of these CARD staff members. I will write about a couple of the issues that we talked about in the next couple of blog entries.

My notes are a little sparse in places, so please bear with me. We were about 10 or 11 days into our trip at this point. At this juncture, I was mentally exhausted and very homesick so I was not journaling with the vigor and intensity that I was earlier in the trip.

The first item in my notes from that day falls under the broad issue of food security.


The context for writing about food security in Malawi is simple. There is not always enough food, especially when there has been a drought as there was a couple of years ago. Or when droughts are not an issue, excessive rains during the November to May rainy season can lead to excessive runoff and even floods.

Included among the discussion points were:

1. Is there enough food to sustain a family through a drought;
2. Nutritional value of the food;
3. Accessibility of the food, who gets the food, in a particular household; and
4. The right of children.

CARD does the following:

1. Responds to emergencies, i.e. something the people were not expecting such as drought, and floods.
2. Works with villagers on ways that their village can work towards being self-sustaining including: goat production, crop production, and water sanitation.

HIV/AIDS is an added pressure in the case when one income earner is lost due to illness or death.

I was interested to find out that something on the order of 40% of (family) harvest loss of is due to post-harvest infestation in the form of mice and insects. Chemicals are utilized, although I suspect that this come at an added cost that might be out of the reach of many families. A number of natural remedies are used. Ground up leaves from a certain trees or ashes are mixed with the maize to ward off weevils. This seems to work. Ashes are also mixed in with the potato crop to prevent weevil infestation.

One model for rodent control that we discussed could come through communal grain banks. Here individuals come together as a group and construct a brick structure – bricks can be made by hand – with rodent guards. The idea is that the individuals in the group will come up with an agreement on storing and then using grains and other groups. I got the impression that this model is not yet widely used, if at all. But it is an interesting one. And if the bricks can be made by hand and then cured by fire – to stand up through the rainy season, I think that this could be a very cost-effective solution for rodent control.

Resuming blogging

If you have been following my blog, then you know that I have not posted anything in over two weeks. I spent some of this time starting to write some private reflections based on my recent trip to Malawi. But the last of those writings were about ten days ago. I have been in a relatively dry period in regards to any writing. I am not here to go into a prolonged analysis of the whys and the wherefores of this dry period. Rather, I am ready to move on and continue with posts to my blog.

I am not exactly sure what I will be writing about here. It may or may not be about Malawi. I think I am at a turning point in my blogging about Malawi. If I am to post on a more regular basis and, at the same time, take time when I am preparing an entry on Malawi, I might want to intersperse my Malawi entries with reflections on other things.

Power Blackouts and Malaria Medication

By our third or fourth day in Malawi, we experienced our first power blackout. This one lasted about one hour. By the end of our first week, we had experienced three more. All around the dinner hour, at least what was our dinner hour. We tended to eat on the late side, sitting down somewhere around 6:30 to 7PM. Eating out in Malawi, often requires a longer wait for food than I am accustomed to in America. Sometimes we would not finish eating until 9:30 or 10PM at night.

Some places had generators, others did not. At the hotel where we stayed in Zomba, they had no generator. Between the power failure that meant that they could not cook, and needing to take my nightly malaria pill with food, I was not a happy camper. I usually had a package of nuts of a power bar in my bag for such a purpose, but had opted to leave all this in my hotel room. Silly me. The one night I really needed the power bar so I could take my malaria pill, I did not have it. I took the malaria pill about an hour or so after the “designated time”, designated because I was under physician’s orders to leave 12 hours between my malaria pill and my thyroid pill.

Some more time passed, and I started to feel nauseous from taking the malaria pill without food. I mentioned this Don, who is a physician, and he helped procure some bread from the kitchen so I could settle my stomach. It worked, and our food came not long after.

It was not until sometime in our second week that I found out the reasons for the power blackouts. That is, I asked Luzu. We were in Malawi during their dry season. Much of Malawi’s power comes from hydroelectric power. The problem is that during the dry season, there often is not enough hydro power to fulfill the demand for electricity. So, they have scheduled power blackouts that are advertised in the paper. The theory is that, assuming you can get a newspaper, you will know when your neighborhood is going to be blacked out and you can plan accordingly. I forgot to ask Luzu, how the word of the planned blackouts gets around to those who do not have newspapers. Perhaps the radio is used, or failing that there is always word of mouth. In any event, I finally had my answer.

Camaraderie in Malawi

There were eleven of us in the transformational journey group that traveled to Malawi. We ranged in age from 22to the mid-60s with eight women and three men. Seven were from the Pasadena/Los Angeles area, of these seven; five are members of All Saints Episcopal Church in Pasadena. Stephanie who joined us from South Africa grew up in Pasadena. I believe that her parents are good friends of Don and Mary. I am from New Jersey, while Adam and Rachel were most recently living in Tennessee (I think).

I had never met any of these wonderful people in person prior to traveling to Malawi. The one exception was Don Thomas, whom I had corresponded with over e-mail for about one year. Don had mentioned in an e-mail about how those of us traveling to Malawi together would become “life-long friends.” I had no idea how true his words would become.

To say that I was pleasantly surprised by how safe I felt with the other ten people in our Malawi transformational journey group is an understatement. From the get go, it was as if I had known the other nine people in our group for a long time (Jean joined us on our fifth full day in Malawi). The “normal” walls and barriers that Isometimes put up between others and myself were not there. Sometimes it takes a little while before I feel “safe enough” in a new situation to “knock down the barriers that I erect that may prevent people from getting to know me. Not this time, there were no barriers. In fact, on our first plane ride together from Johannesburg to Lilongwe, a couple of us remarked to the other about how safe we felt with each other.

A couple of days after we arrived, we were commenting on how it felt like we had known each other for “a long time.” While all of us were careful to respect each other’s boundaries, I felt a sense of safety, a sense of community. We were on this journey together and we took care of each other. A couple of us felt “sick”, mostly stomach problems, but nothing major. We never got stuck on a poorly maintained, badly rutted dirt road in a remote section of Malawi. If any of things were to happen, we would have taken care of each other.

I have not seen anybody since I got back. I miss everyone. Many are on the west coast. Don and Mary are embarking on a new adventure in New York City for the remainder of the year. I hope to see them before they go back to the west coast. Adam and Rachael are leaving Malawi on September 20th for Europe and the Middle East. I think that Stephanie is back in South Africa. Tim and Jane have family not far from me, I hope to see them when they visit.

I am assured that we will be friends forever. And even if it has been years since we last saw each other, it will be as if it was yesterday.

Tires

On our second full day in Malawi Luzu had to get the spare tire on the van fixed. This was the day we drove from Lilongwe to Senga Bay with two visits in the Salima area. As we approached Salima I recall noticing a group of young men at the side of road repairing bicycle and automobile tires. A tire repair shop without walls, so to speak. Our first stop was in the town center of Salima for the ATM and a grocery store.. When we had finished our errands in town, Luzu announced that he needed to get the spare tire on the van fixed, that it would only take an hour. Luzu dropped us off at our first stop of the day, the Salima Aids Support Orginazation (SAS0) before driving off to get the tire taken care.

Well before we ready to leave SASO, Luzu reappeared with the van. When we were done, those of us who were riding in the van piled in. Don and his wife and his two passengers got into the car and we were off. Luzu stopped at the same “tire repair shop without walls that I had noticed on our approach to Salima, paid the young men, got the spare and reattached the spare to the back of the van,

I did not think about getting the spare tire fixed at the time. After all, no matter where you live keeping your spare in good repair is a common sense. After all, no one wants to be caught by the side of the road with a flat tire and an unusable spare.

It took a visit to my mechanic the other day to have him repair a flat tire to get me thinking about what it might be like to be caught in remote Malawi on an unpaved road with out a good spare. Not fun. Even with a good spare, it might be difficult to jack up the car on a badly rutted dirt road. Nothing like that happened.

To be honest, it was Ed’s – my mechanic – interest in Malawi that gave me the idea to write about getting the spare tire on the van fixed. Ed, if you are reading this, this is for you.

Riding in pickup trucks

I experienced another first while I was traveling in Malawi, seeing 20 people or more crammed in the open back cargo area of a pickup truck. Yes, you are reading this correctly. As we drove around central and southern Malawi such trucks crammed with passengers in the exposed cargo area were common sights.

Here in America, riding in the open cargo area of a pickup truck is illegal in many States. As a result I see fewer pickup trucks carrying passengers in the open cargo area than I did when I was younger. But, I have never ever seen more than a few people riding in an open cargo area. Perhaps four at the most, and they were always – if memory serves – sitting down in the bed of the cargo area,. I don’t think that I ever saw anyone sitting on the “rim” of the cargo area.

Another common form of transportation in Malawi involves people the owner or daily renter of pickup truck cramming as many paying passengers as they can in the cargo area of the truck and dropping them off along a route. People will be sitting in the bed of the cargo area as well as all around the rim. I’m not making this stuff up.

The Malawians have a name for this, but I deleted the e-mail from Stephanie where she reported on her experience riding as a passenger in the back of a pickup truck along with the translation to the local language.

I wondered what keeps people who are sitting on the rim of the cargo areas from falling off, especially on a rutted dirt road. But what do I know?

Minibuses in Malawi

Common forms of transportation in Malawi are minibuses. The van that our group rented, driven by Luzu, was about the size of what I would call a cargo van, but our van had about four rows of usable seats. The last row was taken up by our luggage, so lets say the van could fit 10 to 12 passengers and luggage comfortably. If memory serves, minibuses are larger, perhaps a little the small buses (about one-half the size of school buses) often used in America for senior citizens and disabled persons transportation programs, Churches, Children’s programs and the like.

While we were reasonably comfortable in our van, even with our luggage and an extra two passengers, every minibus I saw was literally packed full of people with children riding on the laps of their caretakers, other passengers holding bags in their laps, etc. In addition to being crowded with passengers, minibus drivers always traveled at a high rate of speed. Luzu always let them go past him and was quite good at dodging minibuses when they pulled over to disgorge passengers.

I asked Luzu about the minibuses when I was riding shotgun on day. There seem to be fixed minibus routes both within cities such as Lilongwe and between towns and cities, e.g. Lilongwe to Zomba or Lilongwe to Selma. He went on to explain that the drivers rent the vehicle for the day from the owner for a fixed rate. The more trips that the driver can complete, the more money they can take home. I recall that the daily rental fee is not “cheap” giving the drivers even more motivation to make more trips. And they compete with other minibuses on the same route. So if a driver can get to the destination first, they can beat out their competition.

I received an email from Stephanie a few days after I returned to America. She reported on a trip she took to go scuba diving in Lake Malawi where she traveled part of the way by minibus. I can no longer find her email, having deleted it by accident. I do remember that her account of this portion of her trip was in line with the crowded minibuses that I observed. I recall that she enjoyed this crowded ride, in part because she was sitting next to an adult with a baby on their lap. She spent part of the ride allowing the baby to hold onto her finger.

Sharing the road

When I first got to Malawi, sharing the road with walkers, people on bicycles, ox carts, goats took some getting used to. The scene on the road as we approached a settlement of any size with market stalls an/or stores was unreal. There would be many more walkers and bicyclists than in rural areas. And I’m not talking about two lines of people walking down either side of the road. There would be people walking two or three abreast on each side of the street, along lines of minibuses disgorging passengers, bicycles darting in and out of traffic, and walkers making the "mad dash" across the street. Our drivers were very adept at navigating through these busy areas.

On the outskirts of the towns and in rural areas, there were the ever present goats that would dart in front of our van. Neither Luzu nor Don hit a goat. Walkers were always present, although in rural areas they would walk one or two abreast, often on dirt paths that ran along the road.

I lived in urban areas for about seven years in my twenties. In New York City where I lived the longest, I rode a bicycle sharing the road with cars, trucks, and buses. Not necessarily minding my manners, but getting away with it. If you are driving near a dairy farm in a rural area, you may have to stop while the cows cross the street to or from a barn or a field. You may have to slow down to follow a slow moving piece of farm equipment until it is safe to pass. Visitors to some National Parks in America and elsewhere may have to share the road with various types of indigenous wildlife. Nothing I had seen to date in America prepared me for what it means to share the road in Malawi.

About half way through our trip while I was riding shotgun with Luzu, he commented to me that “in Malawi we share the road.” Roads in Malawi are for everybody, not just cars, vans, and the like. There will only be something resembling “sidewalks”Only in larger towns and cities such as Lilongwe, Blantyre, and Zomba were then anything that resembled "sidewalks."

When I came home and drove around my town, I immediately noticed how quiet the streets were. Even crowded American interstate highways have taken on a new meaning.

Private Toilets and cell telephones

I went back and read the first posts I made from Malawi on June 14 (the day of my arrival) and June 15 (my first full day). The idea being that I wanted to compare what I wrote in my blog for those two days with hand written entries in the small journal that I carried around with me in Malawi. The idea behind this exercise is to provide new fodder for my blog.

You may recall that the first order of business on June 15 was to an open air market in Lilongwe. One thing I did not write about were, what at first glance appeared to be, public toilets. If I recall, these toilets were located just outside the entrance to the market. Given my interest in clean water and sanitation, I was quite interested in finding more about these toilets, so I asked Luzu. He told me that yes, these were flush toilets, and that people had to pay to use them. He went on to explain that the reason there is a fee to use the toilets is because if no fee is charged then the toilets fall into to disrepair. The fees cover, among other things, the cost of maintaining the facilities. I intended to go back to the market and see this facility close-up, paying the fee to do so. I never made it back.

In my early entries from Malawi, I listed my observations while riding in the van So, I have written about the many roadside stalls that I saw during our travels. By the end of our trip, they were a routine sight. People selling goods ranging from cell phone minutes to mice on a stick to vegetables to hand made furniture to coffins. On that first drive from the airport to Wendels, I noticed that a large number of small booths (or kiosks) with signage saying “celltel” or something similar. If memory serves, “celltel” is one of the cellular providers in Malawi. People at these booths had cellular telephones, selling time to individuals who wanted to place a call. In addition, some of these booths sold what are known as sim cards.

Unlike my cellular telephone that I can only use with a specific cellular carrier, unlocked cellular telephones can be purchased which can be used with a variety of cellular carriers. Activating an unlocked cell phone involves purchasing something called a sim card that contains a certain amount of airtime. When the airtime is used up, you purchase another sim card. The use of sim cards seems commonplace in Malawi. Americans can purchase an “unlocked cell phone” in Malawi at a much lower cost than in the U.S. However, to a Malawian, even a phone that is inexpensive to an American is going to be quite expensive. The cost of a cell telephone could explain the apparent popularity of “celtel” booths, especially around the cities and larger towns. If a Malawian could not afford one a cell phone, the “celltel” booths provided an opportunity to place a call. I never did find out what people charged for the use of their cell phone. My unanswered question is could a Malawian of average means, which probably means they are extremely poor, easily afford to purchase a couple of minutes of cell phone time at a “celltel” booth?

A little more about Luzu

I want to spend a little more time telling you about Luzu, one of our two drivers in Malawi. One of the things about Luzu that was interesting is that he grew up in northern Malawi, and we spent all of our time in central and southern Malawi. So, he talked a little about some of the customs and traditions that he grew up with. For example, the language is different and how village chiefs are elected is also different.

At some point he ended up in the Lilongwe area, I am sure that he told us how he ended up there, but because I did not write it down, I don’t recall the story. Anyway, he currently lives with his wife, two daughters, a (great) nephew and other relatives in an area known as Likumi about 8 km outside of Lilongwe. He took all of us to his house, actually a small compound on our next to last full day in Lilongwe.

Luzu works for a nongovernmental organization (NGA) in Malawi that works with wildlife preservation. In addition, at the time we visited him he had two kinds of chickens, about 400 layers and 500 broilers. His wife, whom I also met along with his youngest daughter, works for the government (I think). So, the chickens bring in extra cash. In a recent e-mail, Luzu reported that he sold the layers because they stopped laying eggs. He keeps the broilers for two months before selling them off and replaces them with a new batch of broilers. In addition, he had one or two roosters and some guinea fowl. I was very impressed with how clean and well cared for his chickens were along with the fact that they mix the chicken food themselves. He had a couple of young men who may have been part of his “extended” family who helped with the chickens.

They also had some fruit trees, and space for a vegetable garden.

I was quite impressed with his resourcefulness, self-sufficiency, and his generosity of spirit. I met his wife, and although we only spent a little while together, I felt as if I had known her for a long time, a kind of “kinship” that is very special and perhaps very “African.” Whatever words I use to try to describe this are wholly inadequate. I hope you get the idea She too shares Luzu’s resourcefulness, self-sufficiency and generosity of spirit. My only regret is that I was too tired to think about getting someone to take a picture of his wife and me.

Both of his daughters are in school. I know that his oldest daughter is in secondary school and his youngest daughter may be getting ready for secondary school. I can tell that they will go far.

Back from Vermont

I have been back from Vermont for four days now. It turns out that with the exception of my “diary”, I did no writing to speak of. So, I have nothing to post. I did write one entry that I had intended to post here. I still may do so, but it will require revisions.

Hello from Vermont

I am one week into my vacation. A very nice and welcome interlude here in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont. The usual vacation activities. I have at least one entry that I will post when I get home next week and have more time to spend on the internet.

Off to the North East Kingdom of Vermont

I am off to my cabin in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont for two weeks. Sans internet access. Will try to post periodically when I am in places with wireless access.

First Impressions of Malawi

One of the many people that we met when we were in Malawi asked us about our first impressions of Malawi. I told him that my first impression was deforestation. As I write this one month after returning home there are three first impressions that stay with me: deforestation, coffins, and goats. My first sight of Malawi came when our flight from Johannesburg was descending to the international airport in Malawi. Even though I was sitting in an aisle seat, I had a decent view out the window. The very first thing I noticed was the lack of trees. No, the landscape was not entirely denuded of trees, for there were patches of trees.

After I got in the van with Luzu for the trip from the airport to Wendels –– about a 30-minute drive give or take –– I resumed my observations. I noted large areas without trees, and something else. There were large areas of land that had been burned. As the days wore on, a common sight were these burned out patches of land.

In Malawi, it was very common to see individuals selling there wares by the side of the road. Some had small stands; others merely claimed a patch of land. Fairly early on in the trip, I began to see that many if these “vendors” were selling charcoal in what were similar to baskets on the top of long poles stuck in the ground. The charcoal could be used for cooking. So, this would account for some of the deforestation. But what accounted for the burned land.

Luzu provided the answer. If memory serves, there are two common explanations for the burned land. One is more obvious, clearing land for crops. The other is less obvious. I wrote in a recent entry that people burn land near their villages to draw out mice, which are eaten. One of the things that vendors sell are mice on a stick. Once I knew what I was looking for, the mice on a stick were easy to recognize.

In my first glimpse of Malawi as we were driving from the airport to Wendels, we all noticed the large number of coffin makers selling their wares in these small roadside stands. This is a very sad and visible sign of the high death rate in Malawi. It sounds very callous to say that I got used to seeing a lot of coffins for sale during my time in Malawi. I don’t mean to be unfeeling, but after a couple of days I just had to turn off the large number of coffins for sale.

I’ll write about goats tomorrow.

A tribute to our drivers, part 2: Luzu

I have talked about Luzu elsewhere in this blog, so those of you who have been following along have already been introduced to him through my earlier entries.

I think that Don and Mary Thomas first met Luzu through the American staff from Global Aids Interfaith Alliance (GAIA) about five years ago. I think. With the exeption of 2006, when Luzu was unable to get off from work, Luzu has been a driver for five years with groups lead by Don and Mary.

Not only is a superb driver, he is a very nice person. I liked Luzu from the time we first met, when he met us at the airport just outside Lilongwe. I believe that Luzu has been at his current job for at least one year, so he used his vacation time to be our driver. From what I understand, he earned in two weeks, what he normally earns in two or three months. In American terms, the $20 or so we paid him each day, seems inexpensive, but to a Malawian, it is a nice piece of change.

From the start, I knew that he had experience driving on the dirt roads in the more remote sections of Malawi. I only have one picture that shows a somewhat typical road in a remote section of Malawi. And believe me, we were on worse roads than that one.

Luzu never lost his cool and knew just how to tackle driving on these roads. There were a couple of times when he went around to the back of the van either after we stopped or before we drove off. We always wondered if something was wrong. The worse that happened is that we lost a small section of the rear bumper, or perhaps two sections. No punctured or dragging tail pipes, no punctured fuel lines. No accidents. He seemed to know just how to approach the ruts and rocks on the worse sections to avoid damage to the van.

He never minced words, when asked a question, but we always knew that he was on top of things. For example, on that rainy Saturday when we visited Mindanti and points beyond in a very remote section of southern Malawi, I told him that I heard that this road was bad and could be impassable in the rains.

He said "yes, we have to go soon."

And we left soon after that. Probably because it was the dry season and it had only rained that day, the dirt roads had not turned into that awful slick mud. And as we drove down a long hill to cross the river and her tributaries over a bridge with very, very low clearance, the river had not spilled over onto the road. So, we made it back. When we passed Mindanti on our way back to drop off our passenger, Luzu did not try to get on the turn-off to Mindanti. Instead, he dropped him off at the side of the road. He wasn't going to risk getting stuck.

Considering the size of the van we had, it had a very small tank that took about 40 liters of diesel fuel. That is slightly over 10 gallons. My subaru outback wagon has a 15 gallon tank. He knew just how long to time it between fill-ups and just where the petro station would be.

Another challenge was to not be run off the road by speeding minibuses and pick-up trucks packed to the gills with people. Luzu always let them pass. In Malawi, motor vehicles share the road with people walking, bicycles, lots and lots of goats, and Ox carts, As we approach villages, the crowds increase, more walkers, more bicycles, more speeding mini buses, etc. The horn is always honking and we swerve to avoid hitting something. Through this all, Luzu kept his cool. I would have been cursing up one side and down another. Not Luzu.

We passed many, many broken down vehicles, just as many on the tarred and the unpaved roads. It is a tribute to both Don and Luzu's driving skills that we did not end up as a statistic or stuck in a remote area with a broken down van and/or car.

He was also a great tour guide, answering all of our question about Malawi. We were always asking him, Luzu what is that? We would describe what we saw if necessary. And he would have answer for that the next time we passed it. Often he could guess at an answer from what we told him. As time went on, I got less and less shy about asking him questions. And we learned so much from him,

Why do people burn grass and other vegetation near their villages? Either to clear areas for crops, or to chase out the mice so that they can eat the mice. Honestly.

We passed some very large (5 feet or so) hills that looked like large ant hills. They are termite hills. We asked why the sticks in the top? The stick keeps the termites from exiting the colony.

We learned to identify baobob tress and banana plants.

And we all gained a new friend in Luzu.

Caught up with responding to your comments

I have finally sat down and responded to all the comments to my blog going back to the start of my trip. So, feel free to go back and read these.

I would be remiss if I did not pause and thank all of you who read and have otherwise followed along with my blog during and after my travels. It doesn't matter whether or not you posted a comment. What matters is that you were here. I could not of done this with the support of all of you wonderful people.